Category: honeybees

Beekeepers all over the country have had it rough the past few winters. Between the infestation of varorra mites, the mysterious Colony Collapse Disorder, to the growth of the small hive beetle (SHB), the cold months between fall and the first days of Spring can be troubling. Winter is a difficult time for both keeper and bees in no part because there is a lot of waiting. Waiting for snow to melt, waiting for temperatures to rise, waiting to check and see if a colony is still alive.

But that does not mean that as keepers we cannot give our girls a fighting chance. Below are some lessons learned from last season and this one. Lessons that, having failed to execute one or two, may mean the difference between my girls living and dying this season.

1) Fall feeding: It’s hard to think about next Fall when there is snow on the ground, but better to have a game plan in mind for the coming season. Both last year and this year the honeybees went into winter with more than 50 pounds of honey reserves which I felt was adequate to feed them during the winter months. Last year the bees apparently starved to death despite 20 pounds of honey still available. Perhaps this was due to the extreme cold or perhaps the long, long months when I was unable to reposition frames of honey up against the brood. This season, the bees went into winter with similar stores, but when the Fiancee and I checked on them in October, they’d eaten everything. Based on this experience, I fully intend to begin feeding heavy syrup (2:1 sugar to water) the moment the nectar flow has ceased (between late July and mid August). With any luck, this will allow the girls ample food to store for the winter.

2) New Mouse Guards: Currently I employ 8-gauge mesh over the entrance with small openings on the ends, however each year the bees seem to have issues figuring out how to enter from the sides. Additionally, the mesh is annoying to deal with, so it may be time to employ a better system. Most beekeeping companies carry decent mouse guards with holes in the front that allows you to open and close as the bees require (based on activity), however I have found these difficult to install and operate. I’ll conduct some more research, but may just build one that better fits the entrance.

3) Winter Feed: As stated in a previous post, once the weather gets cold, keepers should feed bee candy rather than syrup. Syrup can freeze which creates the equivalent of a large block of ice at the top of the hive (for hive-top feeders). This can chill/kill brood and bees in general. Additionally, as the syrup freezes, it may crack the feeder. When it begins to melt, the liquid will drip into the hive.  I repeat this because 9 times out of 10, the bees will no longer go into the “pantry” for liquid food. 

Instead, winter feeding should consist of bee candy. Below is the recipe from Wikibooks I use and the girls have responded favorably to it.  This can be found on Wikibooks, so I cannot claim credit for it.  The link to it is: (http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Beekeeping/Recipes_for_the_Bees)I

Ingredients:
2:1.5 sugar to water (i.e. 2 cups sugar to 1.5 cups of water)
2 Tbs Corn Syrup (do not use dark corn syrup.  It has molasses which is harmful to the bees.  I use Karo Light)
1/8 tsp Cream of Tartar

Dissolve the sugar in water and stir until water is clear (or sugar is completely dissolved).  Continue heating the sugar water checking it regularly with a candy thermometer until it reaches 236-240 degrees (note: this boils much of the water out of the mixture).  Transfer the syrup to a large mixing bowl and allow to cool.  I recommend a porcelain bowl instead of a metal one simply because the metal will be scalding to the touch.  Once the mixture cools enough to touch, whip with a whisk or fork until it begins to thicken.  Pour immediately into molds or onto wax paper and allow to cool.  (Caution: as you whip the mixture, it will harden quickly until it becomes solid.  Just be careful that you don’t have it solidify inside the bowl because it is a pain to get out.)  Once cooled, you can freeze/store for a while.  Personally, I place it into a Ziploc bag and crush it into tiny pieces.  This makes it easy to “pour” into the hole of the inner cover when it’s cold outside.  Others like to squash it and then place the entire patty on the top of the brood frames.  Whatever your bees prefer.   

There are a lot of ways to feed the candy and below is a photo of how I fed mine.  It was a relatively warm day (50 degrees), but I kept the inner cover on while breaking up the candy and putting it around the hole. The girls came up and immediately started snacking. I kicked a few small pieces into the hole just for good measure.

4) Patience: It’s hard to wait. You want to check on the girls and make sure they are okay. If temperatures are below 50, cracking the hive open is a bad idea. Instead, read up in magazines, books, and blogs or build/repair equipment for the coming season. Additionally, get your woodenware and nuc/package orders in early since suppliers often run out in the Spring. If you’re really desperate to check on the girls, you can press your ear against the brood super and listen for activity. A healthy hive should have a low hum to it.

Winter can be long for both the bees and the keeper. Get them ready early and then make sure you have all the supplies necessary to help them when the weather permits. With lot of effort and a luck, the following Spring you’ll have a healthy, strong hive.

Fall is an interesting time for the girls. Between the vanishing nectar flow, cold nights, and the ejection of the drones (males) from the hive, honeybees have a lot on their plate. As a good keeper, it’s our duty to be mindful of these issues and do what we can to ease the transition from summer workers to winter hibernators.

There are several important steps that a keeper should/must take before freezing temperatures become the norm at night.

1) Mouse Guards: Mice won’t kill your hive like mites and disease will, but they are a pain to deal with. They’ll not only wreak havoc on your frames, but can cause the girls more stress than needed. A mouse will build a tiny nest in the corner of a hive and survive for months thanks to the ample comb and residual heat from the bee-cluster. The simple installation of a mouse guard can therefore prevent a whole lot of trouble. Many beekeeping companies sell metal guards, but if you’re a cheap-skate (like me), something as simple as 8-guage wire trimmed to fit over the entrance will do the trick. Just make sure to leave enough space at the ends for the girls. Granted, it may take the foragers a little while to figure out the new way inside, but bees are smart.

2) Food: By this point, most pollinating flowers are dying. Northern states may already see snow in the mountains while southern states may have a few more weeks before frigid temperatures keep the girls indoors permanently. But until day temps drop well into the 50’s, expect your girls to forage and forage hard. Yesterday, the GF and I made a trip to check on the hive and lo and behold, there were still bees arriving at the entrance with pollen. Late-blooming plants will help, but the fact remains that unless your hive is already packed with its winter store of honey (approx 30-60 lbs depending), you really should feed them. And since we want fat bees for the winter months, a good 2:1 ratio sugar syrup is key. The important thing to keep in mind when feeding, however, is to avoid leaving any liquid in the hive when temps drop to freezing. Not only will the freezing and unfreezing crack your feeder (thereby drenching the girls in liquid if you use a hive-top feeder), but a frozen block of liquid acts like a giant refrigerator on top of the brood. That can negate the heat from the cluster and chill/kill brood. When temps get close to freezing, switch from liquid to candy/patties.

3) Ventilation: Just like in your own home, ventilation keeps air clean and bees healthy. Some keepers worry that allowing cold air to cycle through a hive will have the same effect of chilling brood as frozen liquid. The bees are smart and talented enough to allow as much or as little draft as needed provided there is one. I like to shift the top super forward enough to allow a small crack between the woodenware. Additionally, I keep the screened bottom board on and the mite-counting board off. The bees will position themselves accordingly and seal-up the cracks with propolis as they see fit. More important, they will appreciate the circulation of fresh air.

Once the hive is prepped for the winter, it’s best to let the girls go about their business. The occasional warm day will allow them to escape the hive for “cleansing flights” (aka bathroom breaks), but for the most part, the bees will remain in their cluster until spring. The winter can be hard for keepers as well since our instinct is to check on the girls, but it’s best to postpone inspections until a day when it’s close to 60. But that doesn’t mean you should remain idle. Winter is a great time for preparation and the best time to get yourself ready for the coming nectar flow. A couple important preparation steps are:

1) Wooden Ware: Order your gear. I say again, order your gear! Spring is the worst time to think about ordering parts for your hive, so get your orders in now. For those who do not order pre-assembled parts, winter is the perfect time to build a couple supers or staple foundation into frames. Many keepers wait until February to place orders and find themselves on a wait-list. That’s fine if you have a garage of spare parts, but not so good if you’ve already used up your last frame. The moment things get cramped, honeybees will swarm. Make sure you have enough wooden ware to keep ahead of them. I prefer at least one full hive extra since you can make splits or, worst case, serve as a foster keeper until your procrastinating friend/student/mentor’s gear arrives.

2) Read: Winter is also the perfect time to brush up on the latest news/trends and periodicals like Bee Culture and the American Bee Journal (among others) are excellent sources. Our understanding of these amazing creatures continues to expand and keeping your finger on the latest pulse is a good way to ensure that you are up to date. Then again, for as much as we know about honeybees, they are still a mystery to us. What better way to kill a few cold, wintery nights than brushing up on the history and latest discovery about out little friends?

3) Meet: If you’re not already a member of a local bee club, join one. If you are a member, attend a few meetings. Like reading, club meetings are not only a great way to brush up on the latest news, but also a place to pick the brains of people who have a lot of hands-on experience with the hobby.

4) Listen: If you enjoy the backyard science of beekeeping, then you’ll find yourself tempted to check on your charges. While opening the hive can be dangerous to the girls at colder temps, you can certainly listen to them. Go ahead and trod on out to the hive, press your ear to the side of the brood chamber, and listen to what’s going on. A health hive will have a soft, quiet hum to it. That’s the sound of the bees vibrating for warmth.

Anyway, those are just a few tips. The next few months will be challenging for the bees, but if you can get them, and yourself, ready for winter, you’ll find that next spring they’ll be healthier, stronger, and happier.